So, you've got your machine set up, your metal prepped, and your helmet on... but now you're staring at your welder's settings, wondering:
"How do I know how much voltage or amperage to use?"
Don't worry. You're not alone. It's one of the most common pain points for new welders. Let's simplify things.
First: Understand What You're Controlling
Welding settings control two core aspects: the amount of heat you're applying to the metal (amperage) and how that heat is distributed (voltage).
When welding with MIG, you typically adjust the voltage and wire feed speed; wire speed affects the amperage.
If you're using TIG, you set the amperage directly, while the voltage self-regulates based on your arc length.
Stick welding? It's all about amperage, and the electrode you choose tells you where to start.
Don't Overcomplicate It. Start With These Questions:
Before turning a single knob, ask yourself:
1. What type of metal are you welding?
2. Mild steel? Stainless? Aluminum?
3. How thick is it?
4. The thicker it is, the more amperage you'll need.
5. What welding process are you using?
6. MIG, TIG, or Stick each behaves differently.
7. What filler are you using?
8. Wire size or rod type also affects your settings.
From here, most manufacturers include a settings guide inside the welder's panel or manual. Use that as your starting point.
What Good Settings Look (and Sound) Like
Let's say you're running MIG on 1/8" mild steel with 0.030" wire and 75/25 shielding gas. You might be around 17–18 volts and 200–250 inches per minute wire speed.
When it's dialed in, your arc will sound smooth and steady, almost like sizzling bacon.
Too loud or erratic? You might have your wire speed too high.
Too soft or spattering? You may need more heat or better contact.
In TIG, the feel is different. If your puddle takes forever to form, raise the amps. If it instantly blows through, ease off or increase your speed. A foot pedal is gold here; it lets you adjust on the fly.
Stick welding is a bit rougher, but the rule holds: low amperage causes the rod to stick, high amperage gives a wild, aggressive arc. Find that sweet spot where the rod burns smoothly and deposits a clean bead.
Material-Specific Notes
Aluminum (MIG)
Requires higher voltage and 100% argon shielding gas. Maintain a fast travel speed to avoid excessive heat buildup.
Stainless Steel (TIG)
Use lower amperage settings. Monitor the heat-affected zone closely to prevent discoloration and maintain corrosion resistance.
Mild Steel (Stick)
Offers more flexibility. Electrode choice plays a key role—6010 rods require more amperage and offer deep penetration, while 7018 rods run smoother with a slightly lower heat input.
Don't Chase Perfection. Aim for Control
Getting the perfect setting matters less than knowing how to adjust when something’s off. If your bead is too flat and wide, lower the voltage. If it’s tall and ropey, increase the heat. Undercutting or poor penetration? You may need more amps or faster wire feed.
Heat input is also affected by travel speed, move too slowly and you risk overheating the metal, too quickly and you'll lose penetration.
The more you weld, the more instinctive these adjustments become. Eventually, you'll stop watching the machine and start listening to the weld.
Final Note
You don't need to memorize charts or overthink every number. Just learn the behavior of your machine. Start with the recommended ranges, make minor adjustments, and test on scrap. Over time, you'll dial things in by instinct.
And if you need a reliable machine that gives you complete control, whether you're MIG'ing thin steel or TIG'ing aluminum, check out the lineup from Canaweld, Miller, Lincoln, and more at Canada Welding Supply. They've got everything from beginner-friendly gear to advanced machines with smart settings built in, including synergic MIG and auto-set features that automatically adjust voltage and wire feed based on your material and thickness.